Vestments
| The amice (amictus, humerale, more
rarely superhumerae) is an oblong linen cloth (at least 32 inches
long and 24 wide), which is first placed upon the head and then
brought down and drawn about the neck where it is fastened with
cords. Originally it served as a head-covering for the priest;
at present only a few orders wear it over the head on the way
to and from the altar. The existence of the smite can be proved
only since the end of the eighth century, and it is probably referable
to some ancient priestly ceremonies. Its reference to the ephod
of the Old Testament is purely arbitrary, as is the symbolical
interpretation of liturgical writers; the attempt to explain it
as a neck-cloth to protect the garment which rests upon it from
perspiration is unsatisfactory. As long as the smite was worn
upon the head or even projected above the other garments, embroidery
or other ornamentation might be shown on it; but it gradually
became hidden beneath the other vestments, so that at present
only a cross is required; this is kissed by the priest when he
assumes the vestment. |
| The alb is identical with the light
tunic of antiquity, more precisely with the white tunic with sleeves
(tunics manicata) which came down to the feet (tunics talaris,
poderis, Gk. podeyes, chiton). Even into the Carolingian period
this was ordinarily worn by the clergy as a part of the ordinary
dress. The exclusion of the tunic from daily use raised the alb
to the dignity of a specific liturgical garment. Apart from its
cut and color, its origin is recalled by the strips of purple
or of cloth of gold which were sewed on (clavi, forum; hence the
names albce monolores, dilores, trilores), with other ornamental
pieces of colored stuffs (paraturce, parurce), in the form of
a square or an oblong; as there were five of these, a connection
was found with the five wounds of Christ (cf. the designations
plagce, plaguhe). In addition, further ornamentation, even complete
pictures, came to be applied. After the sixteenth century a strong
reaction set in; laces and edgings came into use. Recently linen
lace is required and linen is also prescribed for the garment
itself. The alb is worn by the clerics ranking not lower than
subdeacon. The symbolism is purity and innocence. |
|
| The cincture (cingulum, cinctorium,
balteus) is required by the form of the alb. Linen is preferred,
although wool and silk are not excluded. In the Middle Ages the
cincture was often a splendid decoration of the higher clergy,
and was richly ornamented with gold, silver, and precious stones. |
| The maniple (mappula, manipulus,
fanon) is a narrow strip of material similar to the stole (see
below), worn over the left forearm or upper arm; formerly, the
ends hung down freely, now, however, they are sewed together.
The material was originally linen, but at present it is the same
as that of the chasuble (see below). The rich ornamentation of
the maniple usual in the Middle Ages, when it was longer, has
now almost disappeared. Not more than three crosses are required,
while one satisfies the rubric. It is worn by bishops, priests,
deacons, and subdeacons, and, as a rule, only during the office
of the mass. The origin of this vestment, the liturgical use of
which can be proven from the eighth or ninth century, is not certain.
It is commonly regarded as having been originally a handkerchief;
recently an attempt has been made to connect it with the arm-bands
worn by the assistants at the heathen sacrifices. The symbolism
is strength, endurance. |
| |
The stole (orarium) is a long narrow
strip of fabric, which, hanging from the neck, falls down right
and left over the breast. During the celebration of mass, the
bands are crossed in front, the bishop alone wears them hanging
parallel; the deacon, who may wear the stole at greater functions,
may only bear it on the left shoulder. The material is usually
the same as that of the chasuble. The ornament tion was generally
confined to embroidered Latin crosses; in the episcopal stoles,
however, it was often very elaborate. The little bells which are
sometimes found on the lower edge are based on Ex. xxviii. 33
sqq. The name stola, which was introduced only at a later period
and does not apply to the article, obscures its origin, since
this name designated an article of female apparel. The parallel
orariumsudarium shows clearly that the stole comes from the handkerchief
which was worn around the - neck or the arm in ancient time.
The symbolism is patience. |
 The
chasuble, the special priestly vestment for the mass,
was at first a long sleeveless mantle provided with an opening
in the center to admit the head. It was originally worn in ancient
times by people of the lower orders, but it gradually found entrance
into other circles and so reached the monks and the clergy. The
historical development of the alb raised this article, about the
beginning of the Middle Ages, to the rank of an exclusively liturgical
garment for the priesthood, after it had been used for a time
in other than clerical circles. This dedication to liturgical
purposes necessitated some modifications; for instance, the mantle
was shortened, and it was provided with drawing-strings and slits
at the sides. |
| During and after the Renaissance the chasuble was
deformed into the present tasteless, stiff, bass-viol form, so
that both parts, loosely connected, lay on the breast and the
back. In the earlier Middle Ages wool was almost exclusively the
material. The influence of Gothic art led to the more frequent
use of silk and this became the rule in the fifteenth century.
In the beginning white was in general use, but, gradually a gradation
of colors for various times and festivals was established. The
ornamentation was confined in older times to a band edging the
head-opening and running down on breast and back. Additions were
the furcated cross, leaf patterns, armorial bearings, figures,
and scenes. Hand in hand with this went the costly decoration
with gold, silver, and jewels. The chasuble now in common use
is distinguished by a Latin cross on both sides. Common fabrics
- linen, cotton, or especially coarse wool - are now forbidden.
The symbolism is charity. |
| |
The cope (pluvial) was in antiquity
an open mantle with a hood, cappa, and came in from secular use.
It seems to have been especially worn by the canons in the choir
(cappa choralis); it recommended itself for processions also as
a protection against inclement weather (cappa pluvialis, pallium
pluviale, whence the designation pluviale). It found its way into
liturgical use and became obligatory for special services, e.g.,
vespers (vesper-mantle). It also developed into an episcopal robe
of state (cappa pontificalls) with elaborate ornamentation. The
cope resembles the chasuble, but is open in front and is held
together on the breast by a clasp. Toward the Middle Ages the
hood gradually disappeared and was finally transformed into a
small piece of cloth with decoration (clipeus), which hung down
the back. On the other hand, a train was later added to the episcopal
cope. |
| The dalmatic was introduced from
Dalmatia, and resembled the tunic, though it was more elaborate;
it was much favored by the higher classes. When it passed out
of general use, toward the beginning of the Middle Ages, the Church
retained it as a vestment for deacons and bishops especially,
to whom its use was eventually confined. The sleeves and skirt
were shortened and the sides were more and more cut out. On the
other hand, the strips which were sewed on (clavi) and the color
(white) remained. The episcopal dalmatic especially was often
the object of costly art-workmanship. The Tunicle (tunicella),
which is assigned to the subdeacon, differs but little (if at
all) from the dalmatic. |
The surplice or cotta, a convenient
garment for liturgical purposes, permissible to all the clergy,
was created from the alb (which became restricted to use at mass)
by shortening and simplification. The designation superpelliceum
comes from the old custom, especially common in monastic circles,
of wearing a linen garment over the fur coats necessitated by
the long services. The material is linen.
Alongside the comfortable, widearmed surplice there exists as
a variety the closefitting rochet (rochetum, from roccus, "coat"),
a privilege of the higher clergy, although it was worn in many
regions by the common clergy also. Lay ministrants (sacristans,
choir-boys) are also permitted the use of the surplice.
The decoration was generally modest and usually confined to an
embroidered hem.
From the Renaissance period laces were used. The symbolism is
like that of the chasuble. |
|
| |
The biretta (birretum) used to
protect the head, which was rendered especially sensitive by the
tonsure, was small and soft at first, and was made larger only
after the fifteenth century, when it was given its present stiff,
four-cornered shape. |
Vestments
and Insignia of Bishops The robes of the
bishops include the above-mentioned vestments. The higher orders
have vestments and insignia as follows:
The episcopal shoes and stockings. At the
beginning of the Middle Ages the shoes (sandalia, calceamenta)
belonged to the general liturgical attire; from the tenth or
eleventh century, these and the stockings combined with them
(caligce)-of linen, later of silk-are a prerogative of the bishops.
The usual color is violet.
The gloves (chirotecce, manias) are not proved
to have been in use before the twelfth century; until the fourteenth
century they were of white or red silk, after this the liturgical
colors appear. The rim was gradually enlarged to resemble a
gauntlet. The oldest and most characteristic ornament is the
circulus aureus on the upper part of the palm, a gold-embroidered
or metal disk, with a figure (Iamb, cross, etc.) and precious
stones. From the sixteenth century, the woven glove came into
use and the shape was developed mainly after the model of the
dress glove.
The ring (annulus episcopalis) can be proven
to have been among the episcopal insignia from an early period.
At the mass, the bishop wears it over the pontifical glove on
the fourth finger of the right hand. Other clerical dignitaries
who are privileged to wear a ring must lay it aside on this
occasion. According to rule, this ring should consist of a simple
gold circlet with a single stone, but numerous rich and elaborate
specimens are found.
The rational (rationale; cf. Ex. 28:30) is
a light shoulder-cloth of various form which is made up of several
strips of material, ornamented with hollow plates on the shoulders
or on the breast, or on shoulder and breast, and is awarded
by the pope to individual bishops as a special distinction.
It is worn immediately over the chasuble and only at the pontifical
mass. It can not be determined whether it is patterned after
an ancient garment; it is, however, certain that the breast-plate
of the high-priest and the Ephod were factors in its evolution.
The pectoral cross (crux pectbralis), which
arose from the custom of wearing a cross upon the breast, which
according to common opinion acquired a peculiar prophylactic
power by means of a relic, was restricted in the Middle Ages
to the bishops, who employed this cross, even apart from ecclesiastical
ceremonies, as one of the insignia of their dignity. The material
is gold.
The mitre (mitra, miter, infula) is the liturgical
head-covering of the bishops, including the pope. It is not
possible to prove its existence with certainty before the tenth
century. The form has passed through many variations. At first
it was a round cap fitting the head closely with a brow band
and ribbons falling down on the back of the neck. The miter
soon developed into a biretta with edges turned up sharply;
it then received a tall peaked termination and finally assumed
an oval form. An ornamental band, decorated in special cases
with precious metals and stones, surrounds the lower rim, a
second vertical one divides the breadth. The fabric is also
embroidered with designs and figures. The material is silk;
only at councils are linen miters prescribed for the bishops,
in order to distinguish them from the cardinals. (image)
The crozier (pedum, pastorale, virga) had
its origin in the conception of the pastoral office of the bishops
in connection with the idea of domination. This emblem is unknown
to Christian antiquity, only at the beginning of the Middle
Ages are traces of its use encountered. At first it seems to
have been a staff with a straight handle, but at an early period
alongside of this appeared the crook bent like a chamois-horn.
In the course of the Romanic period, this takes on a bolder
curve and is combined with designs and figures; the termination
of a snake's or dragon's head was much favored. As material,
ivory was used; in the Gothic ,period, gilded copper was substituted
for the staff and precious metal for the crook. At the same
time, Gothic art applies its architectural symbolism and gives
the preference to figure-decoration, to scenes from the life
of Mary and from the legends of the saints. Fine goldsmith-work
now appears. The Renaissance and the rococo periods retain the
fundamental form, but the characteristic taste of these periods
was asserted in many essential details. The small linen cloth
which is attached to the staff just below the crook (pannisellus,
sudarium) was probably intended originally for a handkerchief;
later it disappeared from the episcopal staff and remained on
the abbot's staff, as a distinguishing mark (abbots, as also
abbesses, bore the crozier). This emblem, however, is only permitted
to the bishop within his diocese. Bishops' and abbots' croziers,
from the Middle Ages, have been preserved in great numbers,
even from early Romanic times, when the custom existed of laying
them in the graves of their owners.
The pallium consists of a white woolen band
about three inches wide, interwoven with six black silk crosses;
it encircles the shoulders, one band falling upon the breast
and the other upon the back. Gold pins fasten it to the vestment
beneath. It is worn regularly only by the pope, primates, patriarchs,
and archbishops over the chasuble, although certain specially
privileged bishops also wore it. The pallia are made by nuns
in S. Agnese near Rome, and are supposed to obtain a special
consecration by being deposited in the grave of St. Peter.
The manteletta or chimere is an episcopal
garment which bishops wear when out of their own jurisdiction,
in order to cover the rochet, which is one symbol of episcopal
authority. The dignitaries named above also enjoy the privilege
of having a cross borne before them (crux archiepiscopalis),
the crucifix side being turned toward them.
The mozetta is a vestment which is the usual
state dress of a bishop when not performing sacred functions.
It is a short cape or cloak, open in front but susceptible of
being buttoned over the breast, and has a small hood behind.
It may be worn by the pope, by cardinals, bishops, abbots, and
others to whom it is permitted by custom or papal privilege,
as by canons in England. It is worn over the rochet, but when
the prelate is out of his jurisdiction, he either wears it over
the manteletta or not at all. By cardinals this vestment and
the rochet are worn only in the churches from which they take
their titles, except at Rome during a papal vacancy or at con
claves. The pope has five of these vestments. From the first
vespers of the Ascension during the hot season he wears one
of red satin except on vigils or penitential occasions, when
the material is of red serge or camlet. The rest of the year
the material is of red velvet, except on penitential occasions,
when the material is of red woolen cloth; but from Holy Saturday
till the second Saturday after Easter the mozetta is of white
damask. The cardinals have four mozettas, of red or purple silk,
violet silk, rose colored silk, and violet serge. The cardinals
are distinguished by purple garments and by a flat broad-brimmed
hat from which hang, on the sides, bands with tassels. The proper
costume of the pope is the episcopal, although it is in part
more richly made and differs in some respects. For instance,
instead of the crozier, he bears a tall cross with two or three
arms.
A special distinction is, however, the tiara
(regnum, triregnum). This is the princely emblem of the pope
and is, therefore, worn when his princely authority is to be
manifested; in liturgical and ecclesiastical functions he wears
in stead the episcopal miter. The tiara does not appear before
the eleventh century, and then at first only in the form of
a peaked hat edged with embroidery; later it becomes taller
and assumes a conical form. Although the tiara has a certain
similarity to the miter, it is distinguished from the latter
by having only one point. The difference is stir more marked
at the coronation. Even into the thirteenth century, a single
circlet (reguum) surrounds the tiara, but under Boniface VIII.
(1294 1308), a second was added, and finally a papal in ventory
of 1315 names three. It is possible that even in the time of
Boniface VIII. the triple crown had appeared; in any case, this
evolution was not far removed from his pontificate.
Lastly, brief allusion may be made to the liturgical
comb, which the priest used for arranging his hair
before the celebration of mass. This is also given to the bishop
at his consecration as his personal property, and is therefore
often found in bishops' graves; the material is ivory, often
richly carved. Christian antiquity knows nothing of this article. |
Much of this information was taken from the Catholic
Encyclopaedia
Sacred Vessels used on
the Altar
|